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Digital SLR photography — Fast lens, slow lens. What’s the difference?

Photographers have been known to talk about fast lenses with the kind of reverence motoring fanatics talk about fast cars. So, what’s a ‘fast’ lens? Why do photographers rave about them so much? And why do they cost so much?

Close-up shot of a 50mm f1.8 lens

A fast lens is one capable of opening up to a bigger aperture than a slow lens. For example, a lens capable of f/1.2 would be considered a very fast lens while one that can’t open up to anything bigger than f/8 would be considered slow.

Now, before I go on, if that last paragraph was confusing, then you might want to learn more about aperture and f-stops by reading the first page of my beginner’s guide to Digital SLR photography.

So why do photographers love fast lenses so much?

The most obvious reason is, because a fast lens lets in more light you can use it to take photos in darker conditions than you could with a slower lens. That’s handy for wildlife photographers trying to get shots of critters running around in the dim light around sunrise or sunset. It can also allow for shorter shutter speeds, which can come in handy on a windy day, for example, when all the foliage in a scene is moving.

Photo taken with a small apterture features a distracting background

This photo was taken using a small aperture. The distracting background is typical of photos taken with a slow lens

The same photo taken with a bigger aperture features a blurred background which 
	no longer distracts

Taken using a bigger aperture, the background has now become so much out of focus that it no longer draws your attention from the flower.


But there’s another advantage in fast lenses.

When you fix your eyes onto something, the object you’re looking at is in focus while everything at a different distance tends to fall out of focus. We find that to be a natural way of seeing the world and perhaps because of that, we find it pleasing if the same effect happens in a photo. Because a big aperture can reduce the depth of field in a shot, the subject can be kept sharp while the background blurs away from our attention. Because our eyes are drawn to whichever part of a photo is in sharpest focus, the subject then appears to stand out. For example, a photographer can get someone’s eyes in sharp focus while allowing the sides of the face to be slightly blurred. That effect can draw our attention to the eyes, enhance the appearance of the portrait and it can be quite flattering too.

Why are fast lenses so expensive?

The answer to this question lies in the meaning of an f-stop.

You see, the f-stop is a kind of fraction. Or if you want to be more accurate, it refers to a ratio. It’s the ratio of the aperture diameter (the width of the hole letting light into the lens) and the focal length.

What does that mean? Let me simplify things by giving you an example.

Imagine you have a 400mm lens at f/2. Then you are talking about an aperture hole opened all the way up to (400 divided by 2)mm, which is a huge 200mm hole in the lens letting light in. Which means the lens makers would have had to do some very clever engineering.

For example, the aperture mechanism in that lens would have needed to be built really big, and then the lens makers would have needed to put even wider expensive, thick, polished glass bits around it.

To make things more complicated, when you start getting into the very large apertures, images can become more distorted and problems like vignetting (corners of a photo appear darker than the centre) can become worse too. So the lens makers have to sit down and figure out all sorts of fixes, which usually involves putting in even more expensive glass bits to correct all those new problems. The result is that we end up with a very big, heavy thing which took a lot of time, money and brains to build. In fact, going back to that example of a 400mm f/2 lens, I’ve never even seen one. Although both Canon and Nikon build 400mm f/2.8 lenses selling at close to $10,000!

UV filter

Not all fast lenses are expensive. This 50mm f/1.8 example can be bought brand new for between one and two hundred dollars, whereas a fast telephoto lens (one with a long focal length) can easily set you back thousands.

Are all fast lenses expensive?

Thankfully, no! It get less expensive as the lenses get shorter. A 50mm lens for example, can be made for a low price while still being fast, because it is so much easier to make a lens which only opens up to a hole 25mm across (for an f/2 setting in a 50mm lens) than it is to make the 200mm hole for the 400mm lens. For that reason, fast 50mm lenses capable of apertures like f/1.8 can often be picked up at prices between one and two hundred dollars, making them less expensive even than much-slower lenses at longer focal lengths. Of course, once you want to increase the aperture of your 50mm lens further, to f/1.2 for example, then suddenly the lens makers have to work harder and smarter, using much larger pieces of glass and more sophisticated optics. So the cost will go up accordingly.

But surely f/1.2 isn’t much of a change from f/1.8?

The difference might surprise you.

While the amount of light let into your lens doesn’t change an awful lot between, say, f/24 and f/22, the difference can be considerable when you go from f/1.8 to f/1.2. The maths is a bit complicated, but an f/1.2 lens will let in about twice as much light as the f/1.8, which means it is twice as fast.

Photography

Beginners’ series on digital SLR photography

THE ESSENTIAL BASICS

Getting started with digital SLRs
A quick guide to understanding your new toy

Learning from examples
Picking up where the first article left off

 

UNDERSTANDING YOUR CAMERA

Megapixels
How many is enough?

Understanding histograms
Making sense of this handy tool

APS-C vs full frame
The differences explained, and what it means to your photography

Fast lens, slow lens
What’s the difference?

How much camera gear do you need?
Sometimes, less really is more

 

COMMON PROBLEMS AND THEIR SOLUTIONS

Washed-out colours in photos
Why it happens, and how to prevent it

Understanding exposure compensation
Why your photo subject can look so badly exposed, and what to do about it

Getting sharper pictures
Understanding the things that stop your photos from being tack-sharp

 

Noise in your images
What causes it, and what can you do about it?

PHOTOGRAPHY AT NIGHT

newPhotographing small critters
in the dark

How I take my shots when there’s no light


TAKING THINGS FURTHER

Using a telephoto lens to blur the background
Here’s an easy-to-understand explanation of why it happens

Macro photography part 1
Using your DSLR for bug shots

Macro photography part 2
Ironing the bugs out of bug shots

One simple trick
The easiest way to get better wildlife photos

Bird photography part 1
Small, distant, and feathered does not have to mean a bad photo

Bird photography part 2
More hints for beginner bird photographers

Using software to ‘fix’ your photos
A few suggestions for image editing

Image Stacking
Using software to achieve extraordinary Depth of Field

 

Other photography stuff

PHOTO SALES

Photo Library
Pics of Australian critters

 

BLOG (sort of)

The elusive waterskiing duck
It started out as a fun idea …

AN UNHELPFUL GUIDE

Wildlife photography — this guide will not make you into a better photographer
Page 1 | Page 2 | Page 3

Great moments in Nature Photography (Not)
When okay shots meet bad timing


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