Photography mdavid.com.au

Taking photos of small critters in the dark

If photography is the capture of light then what do you if there isn’t any light? Using a camera at night doesn’t have to be difficult. Here are some tricks I use.

Freshwater Turtle

This photo of a freshwater turtle was taken in the dark. In fact it was seriously dark, because it was a wet night with no stars or moon visible. Yeah I know, most sensible people would be indoors watching the fifteenth repeat of episodes of The Big Bang Theory but I was finding all sorts of cool things to photograph outside.

There’s a whole different world out there at night. For example, lots of wildlife only comes out at night and it just seems wrong to miss out on the fun of photographing it. I’ve been stumbling around in the dark with my camera countless times and have fallen into some reliable routines.

Focusing in the dark

Easier said than done. A camera’s autofocus needs light to function, and so do us humans when we focus our cameras manually. It can be frustrating to watch your camera’s autofocus hunting backwards and forwards without ever locking onto your subject due to insufficient light.

Cane Toad

Some creatures, like this Cane Toad, only come out at night.

So you add light

Ideally your flash, if it’s a good one, will have a lamp in it for just that purpose. Providing your subject is close enough, like with macro, you can turn on that lamp and then your autofocus can do its job. That’s always my first choice. But if your flash doesn’t have that feature or if the subject is too far away, then I’m guessing you have a torch with you, right?

So my technique when I’m using a torch is simply to:

1 – Shine the torch at the subject while focusing the camera.

2 – Then lock the focus by turning off the autofocus.

3 – Then turn off the torch.

4 – And take the picture in the dark with the flash.

Why turn off the torch?

Because chances are that the beam of light from your torch will be of a different colour temperature to the illumination from your flash. Your eyes might not notice that but your camera will, and it will record the torch beam as coloured light. That can cause part of your image to be stained in the wrong tone.

Freshwater turtle tinted yellow by the colour of the torch light

Leaving a torch light on while taking this shot has left an ugly yellow stain across the lower part of this image, affecting the colour of this freshwater turtle’s neck.

I’ll give you an example. See that picture of the freshwater turtle at right? Notice how its neck has been stained bright orange. That’s the very same turtle as the one in the photo at the top of this page and so I know those guys don’t have orange necks. Nope, that orange was caused by the light of the torch shining in from the side. In fact, you can see that the torch is affecting the colour of the foreground grass too. In photography that kind of thing is called bad technique.

Okay, maybe you want to get that kind of colour into a shot for arty reasons. Well that’s fine, but only if it’s happening because you want it to.

Oh yeah, and that yellow-looking Cane Toad higher up in the page? That shot was taken with the torch turned off. Yep, the male Cane Toads really are a yellowish colour.

A comparison showing how much a torch can affect colours

Both photos of this spider above were taken at night with a flash, but the one on the left was taken while my LED torch was still on. You can see how the bluish LED light has affected the colour of the spider. The photo on the right was taken with the LED turned off.

Little surprises

Huntsman Spider

This Huntsman Spider provided some attractive close-up detail, even when working outside in the middle of the night. When I took another photo just after this one though, I discovered that the spider had moved somewhere else while my torch was off. Yep, thankfully I’ve been able to get over my fear of Huntsmans.

Yes, I’m sure you’ve already figured out the little problem with this method. That’s right — during the brief moment when your torch is turned off and you can’t see a damned thing, your subject can move.

On a few occasions I’ve been lying on the ground in the dark with my camera and my nose inches from a giant spider. I turn off my torch, take the shot and when I look at the preview of the image on my camera I realise I’ve photographed a patch of empty ground. That leads to some interesting speculation about where the spider moved to while the torch was off, and I can tell you right now: the bigger the spider the more interesting the speculation. So I would definitely not recommend this method for photographing creatures that are actually dangerous!

Photography

Beginners’ series on digital SLR photography

The essential basics

Digital SLR photography — a beginners’ guide
A quick guide to understanding your new toy

Learning from examples
Picking up where the first article left off

Understanding aperture
This is one of the fundamental tools for controlling exposure.

Understanding shutter speed
This is another of the fundamental tools for controlling exposure.

 

Making sense of technical stuff

Megapixels
How many is enough?

How much camera gear do you need?
Sometimes, less really is more

How to choose a lens
Making the right choices can improve your shots and save you money

newTips for using tripods
Getting the most out of them

JPG versus RAW
Which is the best way to work?

Understanding histograms
Making sense of this handy tool

APS-C vs full frame
The differences explained, and what it means to your photography

Pixel density in sensors
Helping APS-C cameras photograph distant objects.

Fast lens, slow lens
What’s the difference?

Understanding colour temperature
It doesn’t have to be complicated.

Understanding resolution
What it means, as it applies to digital photography

 

Photography words explained

What’s a 100% crop?
I explain a term you often hear in digital photography

newWhat are specular highlights?
You’ll recognise them when you see them

newWhat is bracketing?
A commonly-used word for a handy trick

 

Photography at night

Photographing small critters
in the dark

How I take my shots when there’s no light

newTaking pictures of the moon
You need a fairly long lens, and these simple tricks

Common problems and their solutions

Washed-out colours in photos
Why it happens, and how to prevent it

Understanding exposure compensation
Why your photo subject can look so badly exposed, and what to do about it

Understanding dynamic range
Dealing with too much contrast

Working in harsh light
Getting some of the colour back into midday photography

Getting sharper pictures
Understanding the things that stop your photos from being tack-sharp

Noise in your images
What causes it, and what can you do about it?

 

Taking things further

Using a telephoto lens to blur the background
Here’s an easy-to-understand explanation of why it happens

Macro photography part 1
Using your DSLR for bug shots

Macro photography part 2
Ironing the bugs out of bug shots

One simple trick
The easiest way to get better wildlife photos

Wildlife photography
Tricks the pros use to get better pictures of critters

Bird photography part 1
Small, distant, and feathered does not have to mean a bad photo

Bird photography part 2
More hints for beginner bird photographers

How I take photos of frogs
These tiny critters require a technique all their own.

Using software to ‘fix’ your photos
A few suggestions for image editing

 

Advanced stuff

Image Stacking
Using software to achieve extraordinary Depth of Field

Sneaky deep-etching
A fast way to cut complicated objects out of their backgrounds

 

Other photography stuff

BLOG (sort of)

The elusive waterskiing duck
It started out as a fun idea …

PHOTO GALLERY

Pics of Australian critters
Some of my recent images

PHOTO SALES

Looking for the right picture?
A small selection of the photos available


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